It may be an osteria, but with two cutting-edge Japanese chefs in the kitchen, the dining experience at Five Nines (999.99) is Modern European shot through with meticulous Asian flourishes, all this set in a swanky Manhattan-esque dining room that’s sexy and sharp.
A plate at Five Nines (999.99) is to be painted with a palette of Japanese ingredients, French techniques, and a rustic Italian sensibility. A five course dinner set here starts off with some tender Japanese whelk served with accoutrements like a creamy, frozen egg yolk, champagne dew, and chamomile yoghurt, dressed with a white soy glaze, salmon roe, and yuzu zest. That quickly moves on to chicken breast with a light, tomato-infused dashi broth, the plate bursting with flavourful greens like brussels sprouts, fennel, and slices of an Amera tomato. Then tuck into a iberico pork loin grilled with its miso marinade, served on a bed of earthy pureed celeriac, with some zing from a Japanese plum reduction, the smoky bitter-sweetness of a charred onion, with some heirloom carrot, green apple, and radicchio for crunch and sweetness. For dessert, the ubiquitous panna-cotta, except here made with tart red grapefruit, coconut foam, tangy mango sorbet, and rich armagnac jelly.
Well-balanced plates with high quality ingredients, prepared in a meticulous style that blends European techniques with Japanese presentation and sensibilities, is it any wonder that the five nines in the name refer to the index given to the purest of gold? Come taste it today. (Sep 2017)